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Cats

Enter the cat as your new pet

The domestic cat is unique as the only animal that man took on for a non-utilitarian purpose. That it's the supreme enemy of small vermin is a bonus. Its independent nature and capacity for keeping its own counsel make a cat a very different pet from the loyal dog, with the cat's acceptance of man certainly being on the cat's terms.

As is the case with any pet, before acquiring a cat, weigh up the pros and cons. A kitten is a responsibility needing constant care and regular feeding. It needs to be house-trained, changing litter trays frequently. And it needs feeding at regular hours. Furthermore, it requires grooming and above all, time must be found to play with your kitten and show it affection.

When going on holiday, even if it's left only for a day or two, arrangements with a responsible person need to be made for its welfare - young kittens cannot be left on their own for many hours and adult cats too need companionship.

If you're at work all day, it might be a good idea to get two cats, so that they have company.

Advantages abound with cats as pets. They don't need to be taken out for exercise. However, they can be trained to walk on a lead. They're not big eaters and if neutered, are quiet, unobtrusive and affectionate companions.

Although cats appreciate a garden, many live happily in apartments, getting sufficient exercise with a 'climbing tree', or chasing a ball. All cats love sleeping in the sun and if there's a balcony, it should be wired in if high up. Contrary to belief, cats don't always land on their feet. Falling from a height may result in death or a broken limb.

To determine the sex of a kitten, look under the tail. A male kitten has a circular anus near the base of the tail, with rudimentary testicles about a centimetre away. A female has a circular anus with a small slit (the entrance to the vagina) positioned close to the anus under the tail.

Unless breeding is considered with pedigreed cats, neutering or spaying is essential. Firstly, it prevents more unwanted kittens being brought into the world; secondly, it prevents cats from wandering and thus being run over by a car or caught by a dog; and thirdly, it stops male cats spraying the walls of your home. It also reduces cat fights, a common cause of cat abscesses. The recommended age for sterilisation is at about six months of age.

When buying a kitten, ensure that it's at least nine to 10 weeks old, with a full set of milk teeth, fully weaned and used to solid food. It should be gay and lively, steady on its legs and run with its little tail held high. Eyes should be wide open, bright and sparkling and inside the ears should be clean, with no discharge. The nose should be cool to the touch and not running. There should be no signs of diarrhoea under the tail and the fur should be springy to the touch, not lank and clinging.

Cats love having an own basket in a comfortable, warm spot well away from draughts. In addition, all cats need grooming. So, buy a small soft brush and comb and groom regularly. Then, with a few amusing toys, such as a rubber mouse and a ball, you're ready to receive your new companion(s).

On arrival in his new home, the kitten should be kept in a room with the windows closed and any fireplaces covered. A litter tray should be ready. Change the contents regularly, because cats are fastidious, refusing to use smelly trays. If a garden is available, it can be taken out under supervision after about 10 days of settling in.

Kittens of nine weeks need five small meals a day at regular times. At three months old the meals can be cut down to four and at the age of six months, it should have three meals a day. From nine months old onwards, cats need two meals a day.

Apart from accidents, cats can live for 16 years or more.

Grooming your cat

With a new kitten, start grooming it the day after arrival, so that it becomes used to being handled. And, if played with for a while afterwards, the grooming period will soon be welcomed with pleasure.

A fairly soft bristle brush (not a wire one) and two steel combs will be necessary. One comb with fine teeth to catch the odd flea, and one with wider teeth for daily combing.

Naturally, a long-coated cat will need more attention than a short-coat, but the procedure is the same. First feel through the coat to make sure there aren't prickles or burrs and tease out any tangles with the fingers. Comb and brush all over, placing the cat flat on its back in your lap to do the stomach. Finish with hard hand stroking for a short-hair, or with brushing up the fur for a long-hair.

If the coat is neglected with bad matts and tangles, it may be necessary to cut these away with round-ended scissors, taking care not to pull or cut the skin. The cat's immaculate appearance and hence its dignity will suffer for a while, but the fur will soon grow again.

Dirt in the corner of the eyes should be wiped away gently with cotton wool, as should any dust in the ears.

Nutrition

Cats have different dietary needs to dogs. Many of the special needs are due to a dissimilarity in liver and digestive enzymes between the two species. Special feline nutritional needs include:

High protein: Protein is a source of nitrogen and cats require a higher protein level than dogs. This may be due to the cat's inability to regulate the rate at which liver enzymes break down protein. If dietary protein is in low quantities or not available, the cat's body will soon start breaking down the protein in its own muscle.

Taurine: Amino acid taurine is necessary for proper bile formation, eye health and heart muscle functioning. Cats require high amounts of taurine for their body functions, yet have limited enzymes which can produce taurine from other amino acids such as methionine and cysteine. If taurine is deficient, signs such as a heart condition called dilated cardiomyopathy, retinal degeneration, reproductive failure and abnormal kitten development can occur.

Arginine: This is also a form of amino acid. In cats, the only method to produce ornithine is to convert it from arginine. Ornithine is necessary because it binds ammonia produced from the breakdown of protein. If cats are deficient in arginine, there won't be enough ornithine to bind the ammonia and severe signs such as salivation, ataxia and even death can result from the high ammonia levels. These signs often occur several hours after a meal, when most of the ammonia is produced. Although deficiencies are rare, they occur in cats who aren't eating or have certain liver diseases such as hepatic lipidosis.

Arachidonic acid: Dogs can manufacture this essential fatty acid from linoleic acid or gamma-linolenic acid. Cats can't. Arachidonic acid is necessary to produce an inflammatory response. In many cases, such as in allergies, the goal is to suppress the inflammatory response. But in other cases, the response is a necessary means by which the body can protect itself. Arachidonic acid also helps regulate skin growth and is necessary for proper blood clotting and functioning of the reproductive and gastrointestinal systems. Arachidonic acid is found in animal fats. Like dogs, cats also require linoleic acid, another fatty acid.

Active form of Vitamin A: Cats lack the enzyme which can convert beta-carotene to retinol, the active form of Vitamin A. Therefore, they require a preformed Vitamin A, which is present only in foods of animal origin and is usually included in cat foods as retinyl palmitate. Deficiencies of Vitamin A are rare, but signs include night blindness, retarded growth and poor quality skin and hair coat.

Niacin: Cats can't manufacture niacin in sufficient quantities and thus require higher amounts in their diet. Deficiencies in niacin can lead to loss of appetite and weight, inflamed gums and hemorrhagic diarrhoea.

Starch: Cats have less need for starch and a decreased ability to digest it.

Be kind: sterilise your cat

Did you know that over a period of nine years, one unspayed female cat and her offspring can produce more than 11 606 cats? And there simply aren't enough good homes for all these kittens. So, do the kind and sensible thing: sterilise your cat.

Neutering reduces fighting in male cats, minimising injuries that may lead to infections and serious illnesses such as feline aids and leukaemia. Plus, it reduces unpleasant urine spraying and night prowling. In older males it decreases the incidence of testicular and prostate disease. But importantly, it cuts back the number of undesirable pregnancies and thus unwanted kittens. This simple procedure can be done from age four months and over.

In female cats, sterilisation reduces the incidence of mammary cancers and prevents uterus infections. They also don't have to suffer the stress of heat or pregnancy. It's best to do the procedure before the first heat, from four months of age onwards.

Both same-day sterilisation procedures are simple and painless, with most pets resuming normal activity within 48 hours of surgery. What's more, you'll have a homelier and healthier cat.

Sterilisation is the single most effective and humane method in controlling animal population numbers and can stop the euthanasia of unwanted animals. If every pet owner assumes responsibility and doesn't allow his/her animal to breed, the number of strays would drop considerably.

NO to aspirin

One of the most popular over-the-counter drugs, aspirin (acetylsalicylic acid) is highly toxic to cats. Unlike humans, cats metabolise aspirin slowly. It's extremely easy to give a cat a fatal overdose in as little as a single tablet. The biological half-life of aspirin is 37,5 hours in cats, meaning that it takes three days to remove half of the drug from the body. Aspirin toxicity, which can lead to kidney and liver damage, occurs when a guardian intentionally gives the cat a high dosage of aspirin, gives aspirin over a prolonged period, or accidentally gives a product containing aspirin.

Aspirin may be used only under strict veterinary supervision, because he/she will monitor the urine and blood pH. Symptoms of aspirin poisoning include: depression, hyper-excitability, loss of balance, vomiting, diarrhoea, anorexia, anaemia, gastric ulcers, liver necrosis or hyperthermia. Without treatment, seizures, coma and death may occur.

Immediate veterinary care is essential if aspirin poisoning is suspected. The vet will induce vomiting if the exposure was recent (within the past four hours), followed charcoal flushing. Thereafter, hydration and electrolyte balance will be re-established by administering IV fluids.

Alkalinisation of the urine with sodium bicarbonate promotes aspirin excretion by enhancing the ion-trapping mechanism. Sodium bicarbonate is then administered arefully with frequent monitoring of urine or blood pH.

It should also be noted that paracetamol (Panado) should never be given to cats. It causes liver damage and destroys their red blood cells. One tablet can lead to the death of the cat.

Facing the inevitable

This is a painful subject to write about and it's not done lightly. It's an unfortunate fact of life that all pet owners have to face the passing of a beloved animal at some stage. And this bereavement can be devastating.

One of the most important, albeit sad, aspects of veterinary work is helping people to come to terms with the loss of a dear pet. Death may come as a result of a disease or accident, or when the owner and vet need to make a decision to euthanase. Whichever it is, it is heart-wrenching.

A gift
Consider the extreme pain, loss of dignity and interminable life quality that terminally ill humans have to endure because society doesn't permit human euthanasia, Only then does one realise that animals have a precious gift in euthanasia.

There comes a time when a pet owner has to decide whether an animal's quality of life is so poor that it warrants being put to rest. Because of the strong emotional bonds many people have with their animals, it's imperative that the decision should be one hundred percent rational. The one person able to decide objectively whether it's in the interest of the pet is your caring veterinarian.

Many owners blame themselves when a pet has to be put to sleep. At no stage should an owner take psychological responsibility for providing his/her pet with the gift of euthanasia. It's a kindness to your pet.

Those faced with this excruciating decision should consider their veterinarian a friend and adviser. The decision to euthanase should never be made in a hurry - it requires careful consideration and preparation - unless it's an emergency.

The method of putting animals to sleep was humane. Pets suffer no pain or trauma during the procedure and owners have the choice to be with their pet right until the end. Traumatic though it may be, the owner's attendance during the procedure helps with closure. After all the love, loyalty and pleasure over the years, a pet would also find comfort in being put at peace in the presence of the person(s) he/she loved above all else. It's the least one can do.

Many pet owners need counselling after the demise of a pet. There's no shame in seeking professional help. In fact, it's recommended.

Suitable final rites
A few years ago, legislation was introduced in South Africa to ensure the dignified disposal of pets' bodies. At TAH, professionals are contracted to perform cremation, with the option of returning the ashes in an urn.

For those pet owners who have lost a loved pet recently, or who are facing the decision to put a pet to rest, weep your tears, remember the love and know that your pet will live on in your heart.

Flea control

Fleas. Those dreaded dark brown jumpers who prefer temperatures of 18 – 26 degrees C and humidity levels of 75-85%. Dogs and cats often get infested with fleas through contact with other animals or fleas in the environment. Strong back legs enable this insect to jump from host to host or from the environment onto the host. The flea's bite can cause itching for the host but for a flea-allergic animal, this itching, called pruritus, can be severe and leads to hair-loss, inflammation and secondary skin infections. Some pets, hypersensitive to the flea's saliva, will itch all over from the bite of even a single flea. Therefore, treatment for and prevention of fleas are just as important to the pet as it is to the pet's caretakers.

To determine whether fleas are causing the big itch, check the skin surface for any scurrying flea. Also look for flea faeces - scattered dark specks on the skin surface resembling pepper. If you see flea dirt, pick some off the pet and place on a wet paper towel. If after a few minutes the tiny specks spread out like a blood stain, your pet has fleas!

To understand how and why treatment options work, you must understand the flea's life cycle since modern treatment and prevention products work on different parts of the cycle. The life cycle stages are: egg, larva, pupa and adult. The length of time it takes to complete this cycle varies depending on environmental conditions and the availability of a nourishing host.

A warm-blooded animal such as a dog or cat (or even humans) is the ideal host. Typically, the adult female flea lives on the pet for several weeks, sucking the animal's blood two to three times and laying 20 – 30 eggs each day. She may lay several 100 eggs over her lifespan. These eggs fall off into the garden, bedding, carpet, etc and develop where they've landed.

Since they're about 1/12th the size of the adult, they can even develop in floor cracks and between carpet crevices. The egg then hatches into larvae, which live among the carpet fibres, in floor cracks and outside. They feed on organic matter, skin scales and even the blood-rich adult flea faeces. The larvae grow, molt twice and then pupate, waiting for the right time to hatch into an adult. These pupae are extremely resilient. They can survive a long time until environmental conditions and host availability are just right. When detecting heat, vibrations and exhaled carbon dioxide they emerge from their pupae. The newly emerged adult flea can jump onto a nearby host immediately. Under optimal conditions the flea can complete its entire life cycle in 14 days. Just think how many thousands of critters emerge when conditions are optimal!

That's precisely why it's important to treat both the host animal as well as indoors and outdoors to control flea numbers. Simply sprinkling flea powder on your pet won't work; vacuuming the home vigorously won't work and placing a flea collar on your pet won't work.

Today's newer prescription products are finally taking the frustration out of flea control. In some cases it's even possible to gain control by treating only the pet. Program is given orally once a month for dogs and cats. The adult flea is not harmed but the eggs she lays won't hatch, thus breaking the flea life cycle. This may not be the product of choice for animals that have flea bite hypersensitivity since adult fleas aren't killed and are still able to bite the animal. Another product, Capstar, also is given orally and kills adult fleas only.

Six topically applied products are available: Frontline Plus; Advantage; Revolution; K9Advantix; Practic; and Fiprotec. Each of these products kills the adult fleas on the animal. Frontline Plus also kills other flea cycle life stages, thus breaking the cycle. Often the adult fleas don't even have a chance to bite the animal with these topical products - making them a good choice for flea-allergic pets.

They're typically applied once a month, although Frontline Plus is labelled to control fleas on cats for one month and up to three months in dogs. However, monthly application is advisable in South Africa. Frontline Plus also controls ticks when used monthly. Revolution is labelled not only for use against fleas and ticks, but also treats various mites. Your vet will have specific preferences about each product's most efficient usage.

With any successful flea treatment it's necessary to treat all animals in the home. But if in the midst of a flea infestation, you'll have to treat the indoor and outdoor environment. Indoors, wash all bedding in soapy, hot water; vacuum carpets vacuumed thoroughly and throw away the vacuum bag. Steam cleaning the carpet can kill some of the larvae as well. But vacuuming and shampooing a carpet will still leave a good percentage of live fleas, pupae and eggs, so a chemical treatment may be necessary

For the house several sprays are available. The most effective products are those containing both an ingredient to kill adult fleas and one to kill the other life cycle stages (an insect growth regulator). Methoprene is one such growth regulator. Consider calling an exterminating company for an estimate and a guarantee that their procedure will rid your premises of fleas. For outdoor control it's best to consult an exterminating company.

Remember to discuss flea elimination methods and products with your veterinarian before embarking on this crusade. Good luck.

Microchipping

Microchipping is the most reliable way to ensure that lost pets are returned to their owners. Just imagine, your beloved pet escapes from your garden and is found a few kilometres away by an animal control officer. He takes the pet to a shelter and scans it in the hope of finding a microchip code. Should a microchip not be found, your pet might be euthanased after a number of weeks if they can't trace the owner.

However, for microchipped pets, once a code is displayed on the scanner, the shelter employee can contact the database for the owner contact information. The shelter employee can then contact you directly, reuniting you with your pet that night. Even those pets that don't venture outside may inadvertently wander down the road one day. Which is why microchipping is the answer. Use a pet collar identifier indicating that he/she has a microchip. Also visit your vet annually to check whether the chip is still transmitting data. Confirm your pet's information with the microchip database once a year to ensure that your contact information is current.

Alleviating travel phobia

Feline travel phobia isn't an uncommon problem and occasionally cats will grow out of this fear. However, it would be a good idea to try training your cat to desensitise him to car travel.

First, try sessions with the car stationary, so that he doesn't always associate it with a frightening experience. Then, open the carrier and allow him to explore the car. Don't go anywhere or turn on the engine yet. Next, try feeding him in the car - it will be encouraging progress if he feels safe enough to eat inside.

When he feels more secure, try turning on the engine for a short while. If this no longer scares him after a few sessions, it's time for a very short trip - literally around the block. Gradually increase the journey length and eventually he should learn to cope.

In addition to this desensitisation process, a feline hormone spray is available from your vet. This can be sprayed in the pet carrier. It works by making the cat feel that other cats have been there, so it's a safe place. This isn't foolproof, but may help in addition to the training.

Finally, always place lots of bedding in the basket to ensure your cat doesn't slide around too much.

Keep cats stress-free

It's not just people who get sick from stress. A recent Ohio State University study found that healthy cats show signs of illness when stressed. At the same time the study showed that cats diagnosed with feline interstitial cystitis (FIC) became healthier when stress levels were reduced.

Twelve of 32 cats in the three-year study were healthy and 20 had FIC, a chronic pain syndrome that affects the cat's bladder. Lower urinary tract diseases occur in about 1.5 percent of house cats, the researchers said.

According to the team, stress to a cat might be nothing more than unwanted attention, a dirty litter box, or a strange noise. During stress-free times, both healthy and affected cats became sick less than once a week. In the weeks when routines were altered, causing stress, the healthy cats became sick 1.9 times a week and the others twice a week, nearly tripling the risk for sickness in all the cats. Levels returned to normal when the stress passed.