Choosing a dog
Find out more about TAH puppy classes.
Acquiring a puppy or adopting an adult dog is exciting. However, while all puppies are cuddly and cute, they grow into not-so-cuddly adult dogs, requiring much care and responsibility.
At least for the first few weeks, someone needs to take care of the pup. So, if you're unable to take leave and have a day job, why not give a adult stray a home? There are so many wonderful, desperate dogs at welfare organisations looking for a good home.
Deciding on a breed is an important decision. You need to consider:
- How much exercise the dog needs - depending on its breeding background (pulling sleds, herding sheep or sitting on laps)
- The adult size of the dog relative to your property and space in your house.
- The cost of feeding, grooming and veterinary consultations. Many breeds are genetically predisposed to eye, skin, hip, ear or bloat problems among others.
- Who will train the dog?
- Who will feed, exercise, clean the lawn, groom and spend time with the dog?
- What's your personality - docile, friendly, gregarious, shy, a loner or dominant?
- Are you physically strong or weak?
- Will you be able to cope with a boisterous youngster, a headstrong teenager or a quiet pensioner?
- Certain breeds demand and need a lot of direct attention, while others are content to lie around with the occasional pat on the head.
Personality/social psychologist Sam Gosling has a special interest in cross-species work. He has gone as far as to suggest that dogs and their potential owners should be matched for personality before they start living together. "If owners and dogs could be suitably matched, then it might overcome the problem of many canines being left at animal shelters because they were deemed 'unsuitable'."
According to Gosling, dog owners should assess their pets on six criteria normally used by psychologists to judge human personality: extroversion, agreeableness, emotional stability, openness to new experiences; conscientiousness; and the ability to control impulses. Tests range from finding a hidden biscuit and coping when the owner leaves with another dog. "The evidence that dogs have personality is as strong as the evidence that humans have personality," Gosling said.
So, apart from personality, when it comes to deciding what breed of dog you want to get, consider why the breed was originally bred.
- To run after a carriage for hours (Dalmations);
- To be antagonistic towards other dogs and animals (Bull terriers, Pitbull terriers, Staffordshire terriers);
- Digging prey from burrows and not giving up until succeeding (various terriers, Jack Russells, Fox terriers, Scottish terriers, Dachshund);
- Working (various Collies, Great Danes, Doberman Pinschers, Labradors, Siberian Huskies, Corgis, Pyrenean Mountain Dogs, German & Belgian Shepherds);
- A watchdog with a short temper (Boerboels, Rottweilers, Doberman Pinschers, Mastiffs);
- To fetch and carry things (Golden Retrievers, Labradors, various Spaniels, Pointers and Setters);
- Hunting (Africanis, Greyhounds, Basenjis,);
- Rescue operations (St Bernards);
- A sedate companion (Maltese, Pugs, Pekinese, Chihuahuas, Griffons).
Choices
Large watch dogs need adequate space, controlled training, regular exercise and lots of food because of their size. The possibility of a short temper and/or intolerance require careful selection. (When considering a guard dog, bear in mind that apart from the large breeds, smaller dogs such as Jack Russells and Maltese also warn owners readily about dangers.)
Hunters/retrievers are usually placid. However, because they've been bred to work, they need to be kept active. Regular training and exercise are essential, plus much human interaction. Not good watchdogs, but good with children.
Herding/working breeds need a great amount of continued training and exercise to stimulate mind and body. Human companionship and space are musts. A demanding breed.
Companion breeds also need exercise, but less so. Human contact is paramount.
Digging hunter breeds are little dogs with big personalities, needing training from an early age with daily exercise and human interaction.
Fighting breeds need early socialisation and training, with 100% controlled exercise.
Hybrids are not of pure breeding. Some mongrels noticeably derive from certain breeds, but with others, it's a gamble. As a general rule, mongrels seem to have wonderful personalities and make excellent pets. Somehow, the mutts from welfare organisations almost always seem to remember from where they came, being thankful all day long that they have a good home.
When choosing a mongrel, use the personality criteria described in the third paragraph and watch their reactions: friendliness, nervousness, perseverance, etc. With tender loving care, even the sorry cases become lovely companions. So, think about helping the poor stray dogs and visit a welfare organisation.
Decide why you want a dog. Look into the breed's good and bad points in terms of character, health and maintenance and then assess the individual dog's personality. Your choice also should be dictated by the amount of space you have, the amount of time needed to spend on training and exercise and your budget for the food bill and veterinary services.
In selecting a dog, it may be difficult to assess personality offhand. However, ensure that the parents are well mannered and have good temperaments. Furthermore, the amount and type of interaction the breeder has with the puppies also will have a great influence.
The next stage of influence on your puppy's temperament will now depend on you -the environment at home, socialising and training and how much time you spend with the pup.
When exercising or training your dog, respect the people around you. Your dog shouldn't be allowed to foul the pavements, fields or footpaths. You should always take plastic poop bags along (the freezer bags work well as a glove and then turned over and tied with a knot). Also, your pet shouldn't be allowed to bark continually, nor frighten people or other dogs with aggressive behaviour. A well-trained dog is an absolute pleasure. Thus, training is a good investment.
Caring for your new pup
The truth is that dogs are a brilliant evolutionary success almost without parallel in the animal world. So, to ensure that your puppy develops to its full potential, you need to understand the world of dogs and be aware of your responsibilities.
Prepare for the new arrival by: buying the correct puppy food, buying a dog bed, puppy-proofing the house and taking time off work to spend with your little companion.
To understand your puppy, don't think of it as a human. Seeing dogs as they are with doglike understanding, motives, perceptions and instincts is to see them with a respect for their true natures and capacities. Grasping what makes a dog tick is a way to avoid a lot of misunderstanding, hurt feelings and unnecessary strife in our relationship with them.
Your puppy is a dog, which branched off from its wolf ancestors 100 000 years ago. The mitochondrial DNA sequences between dogs and wolves differ by a mere one percent. Thus the pup wants to behave like a dog and join a pack. Its mind is influenced by:
- genetic make-up from its parents
- maternal imprinting
- its littermates - was it a bully or was it bullied?
- socialisation
- environmental stimulation
- and how you rear it
It's important to have a knowledge of a dog's senses. Touch Touch is the most important reward for a dog. If your pup is deprived of touch, it can become subordinate, fearful and withdrawn. The sense of touch develops early, which is why breeders should handle pups often from day one.
Taste The sense of taste is closely associated with smell. Dogs don't taste sweet, sour, bitter or salt, but rather pleasant, indifferent and unpleasant. Smell, not taste, makes dogs prefer one type of meat to another.
Hearing The legendary ability of the dog to hear high pitches has been verified by laboratory tests - they can hear sounds up to 65 000 Hz (an extra 48 keys on the right of a piano keyboard). A healthy teenager can hear sounds up to a maximum of 20 000 Hz (an extra 28 keys).
Vision Dogs have only 2 or 3 diopters in accommodation, ie poor vision up to 1 m away, which is why they sniff at objects. Their sight is quite good at a distance and their peripheral vision is ten times more acute than that of humans. They see scenes in wavelengths that correspond to a yellowish green and violet - distinguishing two hues compared to the approximately 100 seen by humans.
Scent Measurements of the acuity of the dog's nose suggest that the dog can detect minute quantities of odour molecules wafting in the air by a factor of a million times more than people can.
They thrive on opportunities to use their scenting ability - so, allow your pup to smell and investigate when taking it for a walk.
Communication Dogs communicate using body language, facial expressions, sound, visible marking and scenting. The most common signals are: active submission (crouching low with tail down), passive submission (rolling over on the back), the dominant stance (tail erect, stiff legs, head held high), the submissive smile (ears back), the tooth-baring threat and the play bow (on its front knees, bum in the air).
Small, subtle changes are seen a mile away by a dog, while we don't notice them until it's too late.
Between 6 and 16 weeks, puppies develop emotionally. In this phase, they learn to live in harmony with other dogs and their human pack. They thrive on togetherness - the ancient pack instinct. Also, they must learn dominant/submissive behaviour and play with other puppies to stimulate communication skills, release stress and build social bonds in the pack. Hence the need to attend puppy socialisation classes.
Puppy classes are at TAH on Thursday evenings by Karen Forsdick.
Adopting an abused dog
Adopting an abused animal is an extremely kind act, but the familiarisation process requires inordinate patience and gentleness.
To give the dog time to adjust, don't fuss about him continuously. Most importantly, give him a comfortable bed, so that he has his own space. Having a secure and safe place in which to take some time out is important to the dog's state-of-mind.
A dog that's been abused might be frightened easily; therefore, he needs to be reassured, without encouraging the fearful behaviour with a reward. This is a tricky balance to achieve. Talk to your new pet in soothing tones. If you sound anxious or irritated, you might actually encourage the dog to be more fearful.
Sometimes, just calling him and telling him encouragingly to sit is the best approach. It takes his mind off what he's worrying about and lets him know that everything's fine, because you're in control. Most dogs will learn to sit pretty rapidly if you reward them with praise or a small food treat. Also say "sit" when you notice he's about to sit on his own and then praise him.
Initially, you should reward your dog often with little treats and pats. When he 'misbehaves' for want of knowing better, simply ignore this behaviour. Don't scold him, or fuss about the act.
To prevent rank problems in the future, teach your pet from the outset that the order in the family is such that he's below you and your partner, if you have one, in the pecking order. Usually this is done by making him 'work' for certain things that you do for him: sitting prior to meals, before opening the door and before going for a walk.
Dogs have short attention spans. So, teach your pet during many intervals daily, rather than setting aside an hour as 'study time'. Serious problems with aggressive behaviour would best be handled by a behaviourist. After evaluation, most behaviourists are willing to continue with telephonic consultations rather than insisting on repeat visits.
Dogs can adapt well with care and time. May you and your formerly abused pet forge a rewarding bond.
Sterilise NOW
It's shameful to see the number of unwanted dogs bred and abandoned every month at animal shelters and rescue organisations nation-wide. Most of them are euthanased. And the sad thing is a person was involved in the breeding of every one of those, either by not preventing a pregnancy or by facilitating one. Sterilisation of both male and female animals can reduce the number of abandoned and euthanased animals greatly.
In addition, sterilisation eliminates potentially life-threatening health problems and reduces the chance of others. Not only does that spare your pet the pain of disease, it spares you the emotional and financial cost of caring for a sick pet. Since spaying involves removing the ovaries and uterus, it eliminates the chance of ovarian and uterine diseases, including cancer. It also reduces the risk of mammary cancer significantly, especially if the surgery is done before the female dog's first heat cycle. A spayed female animal is also safe from the associated health risks of pregnancy and whelping. Furthermore, there's no mess of bleeding during oestrus, nor will you have boy dogs lined up at your front door every time your female pet is in heat.
Because the testicles are removed when neutering a male dog, there will be no further risk of testicular diseases such as cancer. Neutered males also are less likely to develop prostate disease, which is generally testosterone-dependant. Spayed and neutered dogs make for better companions and they tend to be less aggressive towards both dogs and people. Plus, they're less likely to roam.
The idea that having a litter will help a young bitch calm down isn't true. Maturity and training, not motherhood, lead to calmer behaviour. And contrary to popular belief, sterilisation will not lead to obesity either. Too much food and too little exercise make for fat pets, whether they're altered or not.
Castration of a male dog doesn't 'break his spirit'. There are no medical, emotional or sociological reasons for a male pet to sire 'just one litter'. And the educational benefit to your children of experiencing the birth and care-taking of a litter of pups should be analysed carefully. Will your children accompany you to the animal shelter when you drop off those last four puppies for which you couldn't find homes?
Don't contribute to the heartbreaking destruction of thousands of animals euthanased in pounds and shelters. You have the power to make a difference by having your pet sterilised NOW. Keep dogs cool in summer
In summer our canine companions don't always have such a good time. Dogs have poor respiratory systems and suffer from heat far more than humans. But owners can do much to relieve their pets' discomfort.
Although this is often a point of contention, taking long-haired breeds for a professional 'winter cut' at a parlour provides them with much more energy and comfort. Most long-haired breeds certainly weren't bred for the harsh African conditions. Short hair also makes it infinitely easier to check for stray ticks. The so-called 'summer cut' is often too short, leaving parts of the skin exposed to the deadly UV-rays. This is bad news for dogs with pink skins, predisposing them to freckles and the possibility of skin cancer. Repeat the cut after two months.
Only take your dogs for a walk before 10h00 in morning and after 15h30 in the afternoon when it's cooler. It's downright irresponsible to take dogs for a walk during the heat of the day. Dogs will follow their owner(s) to the ends of the earth. Therefore, they certainly won't refuse to go for a walk. Not only do their bodies suffer, but the pads on their feet burn and wear on the tar.
Even better during weekends is to take soul-enriching walks in extremely shady areas. When you go for a walk, take enough water along, making provision for your four-legged friend.
For the ultimate summer treat, take your dogs for invigorating swims. Not only is swimming excellent exercise, but it also reduces their body temperature significantly, giving them a feeling of well-being on a scorching day.
Of absolute vital importance is, NEVER leave dogs in a car, EVER - not even for a few minutes, or when the windows are open. When the ambient temperature is above 24 degrees Celsius, a car interior becomes a furnace. Even though they might not get an outing to the shops, your dogs are far better off at home, where they have shade and sufficient water.
That raises the next factor: ensure that ample water is available at all times. Some dogs are big water drinkers and simply can't get enough of the stuff. If your garden isn't particularly shady, erect at least two big sun umbrellas for pets to enjoy respite from the harsh rays of the sun.
Some breeds are more predisposed to heat stress than others. However, this doesn't mean that for dogs less prone that you should ignore the advice above. Those that are extremely vulnerable to heat stress are: brachycephalic (short-nosed) breeds, such as Boxers, Bulldogs, Staffordshire Terriers, Bull Terriers and Pugs; thick-coated dogs such as St Bernards, Siberian Huskies, Pyrenean Mountain Dogs and Golden Retrievers, muscled breeds such as Rottweilers, excitable dogs, those with heart and lung conditions, unfit dogs and of course, the overweight.
Heat stroke occurs when the body is exposed to high ambient temperatures that cause the body temperature to rise faster than the body can cool itself down. This occurs rapidly in especially closed environments with poor ventilation, such as the inside of cars. Even when it's not very hot outside (25 degrees Celsius), the temperature in a car can rise to above 50 degrees Celsius in under 20 minutes. Death can occur in less than an hour - especially in the vulnerable breeds named above.
Ordinary anti-fever medications aren't effective in these cases. Shock doses of intravenous fluids may prevent permanent organ damage and thrombosis if administered early enough, but the most important treatment is immediate, total body cooling. The latter is best accomplished by using cool (not cold!) water. If the water is too cold, it may cause blood vessels in the skin to contract, slowing down heat loss. In extreme cases, gastric lavage or enemas using cool water may be successful. Cooling should be stopped as the patient's temperature approaches normal to avoid the onslaught of hypothermia.
But even better still: don't expose your dogs to situations in which they are likely to get heat stroke. Make it a cool, cool summer for your four-legged friends.
Holiday care
With the December vacation looming, now's the time to make holiday arrangements for your dogs. Top prize goes to taking your four-legged family members on holiday.
First establish whether pets are welcome at your holiday spot. Secondly, consider comfortable transport. Thirdly, take along enough food. It's important to keep your pet's diet constant. After all, you don't want to return with a chubby bundle of fur. Your dog's travel bag should include small portions of food, a water bottle and bowl; chew toys; a leash and collar, a poop scooper and plastic bags. Stop for a break at least every two hours.
If your pet is travelling by air, contact the airline in advance for the reservation and to check on regulations. Arrive at the airport early so that you can exercise your dog, place him in the transport crate personally and ensure that you're available immediately at the destination to collect him.
Pet-sitters A pet-sitter should be introduced to your pet(s) in advance to familiarise them with this person. Ideally, the sitter should interact with the dog/cat and become involved in feeding and walking prior to the holiday.
Clearly specify your pet's diet and explain that fresh water is absolutely vital at all times. Purchase an ample supply of food for the duration of your absence. Provide your sitter with important contact information: your vet, where you're staying and a contact number of a good friend or family member nearby.
Boarding Your vet will be able to recommend suitable boarding facilities. Make your reservation timeously, because many of the superior boarding facilities are reserved well in advance. Visit the facility before confirming your booking to satisfy your criteria for good pet care. Again, provide information about your pet's diet, your vet and other emergency contact details. Many facilities will require immunisation certificates and your pet's health history.
Advance planning will guarantee that you and your pet(s) have a relaxed and happy holiday.
Normal mating in the dog
Occasionally male and/or female dogs are presented to vets with severe trauma to the reproductive tract because of forced separation at mating by people not familiar with normal mating in dogs.
The male will mount the female from the back and grasp her around the flanks. During copulation, the male makes thrusting movements and may dance from side to side behind the female with one hind leg above the ground. Full erection is achieved on penetration. The dog has a penile gland which undergoes swelling after penetration as a prerequisite for the tie or lock of the penis in the vagina. After ejaculating, the dog lifts one leg and turns around to assume a tail-to-tail position.
The dog doesn't have to turn. Some dogs prefer to stay parallel to the female and others prefer to rest on her back. During the tie, the dogs usually stand quietly in the tail-to-tail position. The duration of the tie varies from 10 to 60 minutes.
Before the tie can be broken, the swelling of the penile gland must go down, allowing the pair to move apart quietly. Under no circumstances must a mating pair of dogs be separated forcefully. This may result in irreparable damage to either/both the male and female. Stay calm and wait for the two to move apart.
Facing the inevitable
This is a painful subject to write about and it's not done lightly. It's an unfortunate fact of life that all pet owners have to face the passing of a beloved animal at some stage. And this bereavement can be devastating.
One of the most important, albeit sad, aspects of veterinary work is helping people to come to terms with the loss of a dear pet. Death may come as a result of a disease or accident, or when the owner and vet need to make a decision to euthanase. Whichever it is, it is heart-wrenching.
A gift Consider the extreme pain, loss of dignity and interminable life quality that terminally ill humans have to endure because society doesn't permit human euthanasia, Only then does one realise that animals have a precious gift in euthanasia.
There comes a time when a pet owner has to decide whether an animal's quality of life is so poor that it warrants being put to rest. Because of the strong emotional bonds many people have with their animals, it's imperative that the decision should be one hundred percent rational. The one person able to decide objectively whether it's in the interest of the pet is your caring veterinarian.
Many owners blame themselves when a pet has to be put to sleep. At no stage should an owner take psychological responsibility for providing his/her pet with the gift of euthanasia. It's a kindness to your pet.
Those faced with this excruciating decision should consider their veterinarian a friend and adviser. The decision to euthanase should never be made in a hurry - it requires careful consideration and preparation - unless it's an emergency.
Despite the fact that vets often have to perform this procedure, it also is an emotional experience for them each and every time. The method of putting animals to sleep is humane. Pets suffer no pain or trauma during the procedure and owners have the choice to be with their pet right until the end. Traumatic though it may be, the owner's attendance during the procedure helps with closure. After all the love, loyalty and pleasure over the years, a pet would also find comfort in being put at peace in the presence of the person(s) he/she loved above all else. It's the least one can do.
Many pet owners need counselling after the demise of a pet. There's no shame in seeking professional help. In fact, it's recommended.
Suitable final rites A few years ago, legislation was introduced in South Africa to ensure the dignified disposal of pets' bodies. At TAH, professionals are contracted to perform cremation, with the option of returning the ashes in an urn.
For those pet owners who have lost a loved pet recently, or who are facing the decision to put a pet to rest, weep your tears, remember the love and know that your pet will live on in your heart. Being a good dog owner By being a good dog owner, you'll have a happier and healthier dog. These are the basics:
1. Spend time with your dog - Quiet time before and after work with your canine friend is important. Dogs love to be talked to and made to feel important. 2. Play - Good for both you and your dog! Also, buy him/her a few entertaining, safe toys. 3. Groom - Most dogs enjoy grooming or brushing. This also stimulates the skin and gets rid of dead hair. The bonus is less hair shedding, which means a cleaner house. 4. Supply plenty of fresh water at all times. 5. Feed a consistent diet - Use a high quality food appropriate to your dog's life stage. Supplement with healthy treats in moderation. 6. Provide a comfortable place to sleep - preferably indoors. 7. Exercise - Daily exercise will keep your dog fit. Additional exercise can help with some behaviour problems as well. 8. Don't let your dog get fat - Adjust food intake for body type and life stage, provide healthy treats and exercise regularly to avoid weight gain. 9. Understand your dog - Know his or her favourite type of play and their favourite time to play versus rest. 10. Be observant - Monitor everything your dog does. For example, did he eat all his food today? Has he been drinking water? Was his urine and bowel movement normal? Is his activity level the same? How does he look? Is his hair coat okay? Do you feel any abnormal lumps? Have you seen any coughing or vomiting? Early recognition of symptoms can save your dog's life. 11. Visit your vet regularly - Maintain an appropriate schedule of wellness and health check appointments. Your dog's needs may continue to change depending on his/her life stage or health conditions.
Flea control
Fleas. Those dreaded dark brown jumpers who prefer temperatures of 18
– 26 degrees C and humidity levels of 75-85%. Dogs and cats often get
infested with fleas through contact with other animals or fleas in the
environment. Strong back legs enable this insect to jump from host to
host or from the environment onto the host. The flea's bite can cause
itching for the host but for a flea-allergic animal, this itching,
called pruritus, can be severe and leads to hair-loss, inflammation and
secondary skin infections. Some pets, hypersensitive to the flea's
saliva, will itch all over from the bite of even a single flea.
Therefore, treatment for and prevention of fleas are just as important
to the pet as it is to the pet's caretakers.
To determine whether fleas are causing the big itch, check the skin
surface for any scurrying flea. Also look for flea faeces - scattered
dark specks on the skin surface resembling pepper. If you see flea dirt,
pick some off the pet and place on a wet paper towel. If after a few
minutes the tiny specks spread out like a blood stain, your pet has
fleas!
To understand how and why treatment options work, you must understand
the flea's life cycle since modern treatment and prevention products
work on different parts of the cycle. The life cycle stages are: egg,
larva, pupa and adult. The length of time it takes to complete this
cycle varies depending on environmental conditions and the availability
of a nourishing host.
A warm-blooded animal such as a dog or cat (or even humans) is the ideal
host. Typically, the adult female flea lives on the pet for several
weeks, sucking the animal's blood two to three times and laying 20 – 30
eggs each day. She may lay several 100 eggs over her lifespan. These
eggs fall off into the garden, bedding, carpet, etc and develop where
they've landed.
Since they're about 1/12th the size of the adult, they can even develop
in floor cracks and between carpet crevices. The egg then hatches into
larvae, which live among the carpet fibres, in floor cracks and outside.
They feed on organic matter, skin scales and even the blood-rich adult
flea faeces. The larvae grow, molt twice and then pupate, waiting for
the right time to hatch into an adult. These pupae are extremely
resilient. They can survive a long time until environmental conditions
and host availability are just right. When detecting heat, vibrations
and exhaled carbon dioxide they emerge from their pupae. The newly
emerged adult flea can jump onto a nearby host immediately. Under
optimal conditions the flea can complete its entire life cycle in 14
days. Just think how many thousands of critters emerge when conditions
are optimal!
That's precisely why it's important to treat both the host animal as
well as indoors and outdoors to control flea numbers. Simply sprinkling
flea powder on your pet won't work; vacuuming the home vigorously won't
work and placing a flea collar on your pet won't work.
Today's newer prescription products are finally taking the frustration
out of flea control. In some cases it's even possible to gain control by
treating only the pet. Program is given orally once a month for dogs
and cats. The adult flea is not harmed but the eggs she lays won't
hatch, thus breaking the flea life cycle. This may not be the product of
choice for animals that have flea bite hypersensitivity since adult
fleas aren't killed and are still able to bite the animal. Another
product, Capstar, also is given orally and kills adult fleas only.
Six topically applied products are available: Frontline Plus; Advantage;
Revolution; K9Advantix; Practic; and Fiprotec. Each of these products
kills the adult fleas on the animal. Frontline Plus also kills other
flea cycle life stages, thus breaking the cycle. Often the adult fleas
don't even have a chance to bite the animal with these topical products -
making them a good choice for flea-allergic pets.
They're typically applied once a month, although Frontline Plus is
labelled to control fleas on cats for one month and up to three months
in dogs. However, monthly application is advisable in South Africa.
Frontline Plus also controls ticks when used monthly. Revolution is
labelled not only for use against fleas and ticks, but also treats
various mites. Your vet will have specific preferences about each
product's most efficient usage.
With any successful flea treatment it's necessary to treat all animals
in the home. But if in the midst of a flea infestation, you'll have to
treat the indoor and outdoor environment. Indoors, wash all bedding in
soapy, hot water; vacuum carpets vacuumed thoroughly and throw away the
vacuum bag. Steam cleaning the carpet can kill some of the larvae as
well. But vacuuming and shampooing a carpet will still leave a good
percentage of live fleas, pupae and eggs, so a chemical treatment may be
necessary
For the house several sprays are available. The most effective products
are those containing both an ingredient to kill adult fleas and one to
kill the other life cycle stages (an insect growth regulator).
Methoprene is one such growth regulator. Consider calling an
exterminating company for an estimate and a guarantee that their
procedure will rid your premises of fleas. For outdoor control it's best
to consult an exterminating company.
Remember to discuss flea elimination methods and products with your veterinarian before embarking on this crusade. Good luck. Microchipping
Microchipping is the most reliable way to ensure that lost pets are
returned to their owners. Just imagine, your beloved pet escapes from
your garden and is found a few kilometres away by an animal control
officer. He takes the pet to a shelter and scans it in the hope of
finding a microchip code. Should a microchip not be found, your pet
might be euthanased after a number of weeks if they can't trace the
owner.
However, for microchipped pets, once a code is displayed on the scanner,
the shelter employee can contact the database for the owner contact
information. The shelter employee can then contact you directly,
reuniting you with your pet that night. Even those pets that don't
venture outside may inadvertently wander down the road one day. Which is
why microchipping is the answer. Use a pet collar identifier indicating
that he/she has a microchip. Also visit your vet annually to check
whether the chip is still transmitting data. Confirm your pet's
information with the microchip database once a year to ensure that your
contact information is current. A healthy dog is a happy dog
If your dog is sick, take it to a vet! Basic health rules to help prevent illness: feed your dog well; pick up the dog faeces daily and put in your wheelie bin; take your dog for daily walks to improve his physical and mental health (and yours!); attend to alternate monthly de-worming, annual inoculations and monthly tick and flea control.
Babesiosis (Biliary) is a tick-borne illness. Always protect your dog from ticks by using vet-recommended products, especially in warm, wet weather. Not every tick that bites your dog makes it sick - but don't become complacent. Some ticks carry a smaller organism which passes into the dog's blood stream causing anaemia, loss of appetite, white gums, swollen stomach and sometimes death.
Bad breath can be caused by tooth decay and gum disease. The bacteria breeding in the dog's mouth can spread to infect his vital organs. Brush your dog's teeth regularly and ask your vet to check his teeth whenever he's there for a consultation.
Bloat A swollen stomach can be caused by a build-up of gases from food fermentation in the stomach and once full the stomach can 'swing' around on itself, thereby cutting off incoming blood supply and also cutting off gases building up. The cause is unknown but feeding several small meals a day instead of one large one can help to prevent bloat. The dog should rest and avoid running and horse-play after meals. A swollen stomach is serious - see your vet immediately.
Cancer is said to be the most common cause of death in dogs. If your dog has a pink skin, apply sunscreen to exposed areas daily throughout the year.
Car sickness Don't feed your dog prior to travelling in the car. Try to get the dog accustomed to the car by taking him for short trips to pleasant places. Vomiting can be triggered by fear.
Canine distemper is a contagious illness, the signs of which are coughing, fever, gagging and runny nose. It can be deadly if not treated promptly by your vet.
Tracheobronchitis, commonly called Kennel Cough, has nothing to do with kennels! It's spread by a germ which the dog can get anywhere. There's a vaccine to prevent kennel cough, so have your dog vaccinated.
Diarrhoea can be a sign of many illnesses or it can be caused by fear or stress. If the diarrhoea persists then see your vet. In the case of a puppy, there's no time to lose.
Heat Stroke Don't leave a dog in a parked car – ever! The heat inside a car can reach 50 degrees Celsius in minutes. Don't exercise your dog in hot weather. Provide shade in the garden. When a dog over-heats, damage to internal organs may occur. Plunge him into cool (not cold) water. Wet the groin. Avoid ice. The dog may lie on a wet towel, but don't cover him with the towel.
Human medicine Never give pets human medicine. An animal's metabolism is different to ours. Throw away medicine which is past the expiry date.
Obesity is a killer. Being overweight puts too much stress on the heart, spine and legs. Take your dog for invigorating walks each day and cut out table scraps and endless treats. Most dog pellets are completely balanced and the dog doesn't need table food as well.
Snake bite do's and don'ts
Old theories on what to do when your dog has suffered a venomous snake bite abound. What not to do: • Do NOT use a tourniquet - it can restrict the circulation to the area, causing more tissue damage than the bite itself • Do NOT cut over the wound • Do NOT try to catch the snake that bit your pet, although a photo will help with identification (but don't get bitten while taking the photo) • Do NOT cut and suck the venom out of the bite. Human saliva contains bacteria that can cause wound infections • Do NOT apply ice to the area.
This is what you should do: limit your pet's activity and keep him/her as calm and quiet as possible to help slow the venom's access through the circulation; get your pet to the nearest veterinary clinic with extreme haste. Even non-venomous bites can cause tissue damage and infection. For venomous bites, the use of antivenin is controversial. A veterinarian will determine if it's recommended for your pet.
Snake bite kits are somewhat impractical for most pet owners. Apart from being very expensive, many antivenin products are effective only for a particular snake species and may not work if a different species bites your pet. It also requires an intravenous injection which isn't easy if you're not medically trained. Administering antivenin can trigger a fatal allergic response, which can only be managed at a clinic. Plus, many antivenin products have a limited shelf life - making them impractical to keep handy. Know when your dog doesn't enjoy quality of life
The relentless march of age happens to every living creature, including your pet canine. And with age comes illness and difficulty. Deciding when your dear pet's life has no more quality is a painful but necessary and kind decision. Quality of life varies from individual to individual. Although your veterinarian can guide you with objective information about diseases or a personal perspective of a disease condition, you know your pet's ways, habits and nature better than anyone else. The final decision rests with you.
We provide some guidelines on quality of life. Elderly pets or those with chronic or incurable diseases that are given proper medication and care should be able to: • eat, drink and sleep comfortably without shortness of breath • have an interest in what's going on around them • do mild exercise without collapsing or experiencing profound exhaustion • appear comfortable and free of moderate to severe pain • have control of their urine and bowel movements - unless the disease affects one of these organs
Whenever there's a chronic condition, some days will be better than others and one should learn to expect ups and downs. You must determine what balance is acceptable for the sake of your pet. Speak to your veterinarian about any concerns regarding your pet's condition.
At some point, your dog's life may not be pleasant to him/her anymore. In such an instance, euthanasia is a gift - freeing your friend of pain, extreme discomfort and loss of dignity. General guidelines are if your dog: • becomes exhausted with mild exertion - he can't even walk from one room to the next without collapsing • is unable to maintain his body weight despite a normal appetite • isn't eating anything you offer • cries or howls excessively, which might indicate pain, confusion, delirium or seizures • no longer maintains control over his bodily functions and urinates or defecates on himself • has uncontrollable seizures, breathing distress or there's continual vomiting or diarrhoea
Consult your vet if your dog is experiencing any of these signs. Medication may help or it may be time to consider the gift of euthanasia, thus ensuring that your pet doesn't suffer.
Background info: www.petplace.com
The importance of play
Playing for dogs is as important as it is for humans. It's a good mental break, excellent physical activity and a good stress reliever.
Whether chasing a ball in the garden, rolling around with other dogs or playing tug-of-war, play is vital in helping dogs release excessive energy. Without exercise and play, dogs may show behavioural problems that can range from destructive tendencies to attention-seeking antics. And play activities such as retrieving a ball aren't time-consuming. Experts recommend establishing a regular play time, thus establishing a routine.
Fetch This time-honoured game requires only a lightweight ball of soft material and a willing dog. Make sure the ball isn't too small, otherwise he could accidentally swallow it. (Even a tennis ball could be too small for some dogs.) The object is of course to have your dog bring the ball to you. Don't play if your dog pushes the ball at you then snatches it away as you reach for it, or if he dances around with the ball in his mouth. You'll reinforce the idea that he can give you orders. As the pack leader, you decide when to bring the ball out and when to throw it. Praise him when he retrieves the ball and brings it to you. Quit the game while he's still interested, not when he becomes bored.
Hoops Take a container such as a laundry basket and weight it down with a heavy object. As your dog watches, drop the ball into the bucket several times, while saying 'drop'. Give him the ball, then bring him over to the bucket and say 'Drop'. Do this until he drops the ball in the basket, then immediately praise him. Repeat several times for the connection to be made. Then roll the ball to him and watch him dunk it.
Hula Hoop Hold a hula hoop upright on the floor. Lead your dog through the hoop, then reward him. Repeat several times. Raise the hoop several centimetres off the ground and lead him through again. Then let him go at it. Keep raising the hoop a little more each time to make it more challenging, rewarding him each time. Quit before he gets bored.
Tug-of-War An old favourite. However, don't let the game get out of hand. The best bet is to use a rope that has been specifically designed as a dog toy.
Playing with your dog not only keeps him happy and healthy - it forges a bond between you and your pet. Caring for a senior dog
Breed and size determine when a dog enters his senior years. Alas, you can't hold back the march of time, but there are a plethora of things you can do to keep your senior friend healthy and active for as long as possible.
Monitor your dog's health and visit your veterinarian frequently. Most vets recommend a check-up once every six months when dogs reach their senior years. Blood tests, x-rays, ultrasound, electrocardiograms, CT scans or MRIs might be necessary. Tell your vet about any changes in your pet's stamina, appetite or behaviour.
Check your dog's hearing and eyesight. Elderly dogs may have eyes that appear cloudy, which isn't unusual. But as with humans canines develop cataracts and glaucoma. Calcification in the ears also may cause partial or complete hearing loss. If your dear pet seems surprised when you 'appear' next to him, bumps into things or doesn't come when called, the reason may be failing senses. Before seniority strikes, start training your dog with both word and hand commands in preparation for the day when either sight or hearing starts diminishing.
Continue brushing your dog's teeth daily. This allows you to notice mouth and tongue ulcers timeously. However, in older animals, dental problems most likely will need veterinary treatment. Note any increase in 'doggy breath'. When it starts becoming offensive, it can signal various illnesses.
Bathe and groom him at least once a month and apply flea control products monthly. It's more important than ever to spare your dog the annoyance of fleas and other parasites. At this age, he won't be able to groom himself as easily as he used to. When you brush him, take note of any bumps, skin lesions or unusual hair loss. Remember that his skin is less elastic than it used to be, so be careful not to scrape or pull. Also, clip his nails to help give him sure footing.
Dogs like routine and senior dogs are particularly set in their ways. Feed and walk him at the same times each day. Minimise his stress, because with age even the most sociable dog may not welcome strange animals or people, or even tolerate familiar children. Sadly, sometimes your dog may even shy away from travel or social activities that he used to enjoy because of his failing senses, arthritis or forgetfulness.
Improve your dog's flexibility by massaging his joints and limbs. This will increase flexibility and circulation. It's imperative to keep your dog active, because 'use it or lose it' is as true for dogs as it is for humans. Exercise helps maintain muscle tone, keeps the heart and digestion healthy and even improves a dog's attitude. Walking is great. Gentle games of fetch and other play not only keep him in shape, but will keep him mentally alert and interacting positively with you. Hydrotherapy is particularly good for arthritic dogs.
Ensure that your elderly friend has frequent toilet breaks. Older dogs may experience irregular digestion and/or loss of bladder elasticity and capacity.
Don't leave your pet alone outside. Keep him indoors and minimise his time outside. As a dog ages, he'll be sensitive to temperature changes - aging hearts and lungs don't adjust well to hot and cold extremes. Because his senses, reflexes and thinking aren't as sharp, the dog is likely to be more prone to accidents, injury from other animals or even getting lost.
Arthritis, elbow calluses and other conditions will make it harder for your dog to sleep soundly. Investigate whether you can obtain an orthopaedic dog bed.
Although this should always be the case with any pet, availability of enough drinking water is especially important for an older dog. As far as food is concerned, older pets have slower metabolisms; therefore, he should consume fewer calories. Your vet can recommend food high in fibre and low in fat, so that your pet receives his usual portion but fewer calories. As digestion becomes more difficult, smaller, frequent meals might be the way to go. Conditions such as diabetes, arthritis, heart or liver problems also call for special nutritional plans.
Background info: www.petplace.com
The bad effects of stress
In today's fast-paced world most people suffer from stress and
anxiety. Question is: do dogs and cats suffer from stress? Yes, yes,
yes.
Therefore, it's the owners' responsibility to be in tune with their
animal companions to detect changes that might indicate a struggle with
stress. Pets experience anxiety because of psychological, physical and
environmental struggles. Without intervention, the results of a dog or
cat's stress may have detrimental effects on your home, family and the
animal's health.
Signs of dog or cat anxiety are: changes in appetite or weight,
excessive vocalising, changes in elimination habits, self-mutilation,
disobedience, aggression, health changes, lethargy, depression, new
destructive behaviours such as chewing, trembling, restlessness and
excessive panting. If your pet displays any of these signs, it's
important to see your veterinarian to rule out medical problems. If your
pet is physically healthy, your vet will help you take the next step in
treating his stress.
Should you think your dog or cat has a psychological problem, relate it
to your own emotions and work to help your pet through his problem. As
with human anxiety, your pet's immune system can become compromised, he
may become severely depressed, and/or develop behaviour problems without
intervention. Key to relieving anxiety is eliminating the cause of
stress.
To determine the cause of a pet's anxiety evaluate his daily life. Could any of these be a problem?
• Separation from the family
• Boredom
• Lack of exercise/play
• Fear
• Inadequate or poor nutrition
• Health problems/pain
• Inadequate sleeping/living quarters
• Daily routine changes
• Loss or addition of family member or another pet
The first step in preventing anxiety is to make your pet's well-being a
priority. For example, stimulate your pet mentally with toys, games, as
well as obedience and trick training. Exercise your pet with walks and
playtime. Offer emotional support by giving him your time and love.
Nurture his body with high-quality, nutritious food, fresh water and the
shelter of your home.
Treating your pet's anxiety can be a long process, but with persistence
you'll help your animal companion find relief. Bottom line is that
animals do experience emotional stress and it should be taken seriously. Ref: petplace.com
Grass fetish
Vets aren't too sure why dogs like grass, but many theories abound. Dogs are descended from wolves that ate the entire kill when they hunted for food. Because they ate mainly herbivores, they wound up eating many plants found in the stomach and intestines of their prey.
The mystery is whether dogs eat grass to make themselves vomit. Or do they vomit because they eat the grass? Most veterinarians believe that dogs eat grass simply because they like it and vomiting follows because the grass acts as an irritant. Other vets believe that dogs eat grass because their diets are lacking in greens. In support of this contention, you would have noticed that dogs often seek out a particular variety of grass to nibble on.
Rest assured, your dog's grass habit is normal behaviour. But if he eats the grass in your garden, don't use fertiliser, pesticides or herbicides. This could cause a stomach upset or even worse problems for your dog. Ref: petplace.com
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